On June 11, 2007, Mr. Homeowner called me with a problem. During the heavy rains that our area received on the first weekend of June 2007, his roof / chimney (chimney is located over the master bedroom) had leaked and damaged the ceiling in the master bedroom. Since the house was just over a year old, Mr. and Mrs. Homeowner were very upset. They wanted me to come out and give my opinion of the installation of the flashing around the chimney and evaluate for other leak sources. The question of walking the steep roof came up. I explained that I would not commit to walking the roof until I observed the roof. There were other ways to inspect for a chimney / roof leak.

As their house came into view, I thought of the sight of my large red van pulling into drive way. What heroic theme and figure might one think of as I came to the rescue? The Lone Ranger? Super Man? Spider Man? No, I figured it was more like Under Dog, with some thing like “There’s no need to no fear, Travis Grubbs is here!”

After arriving at the house I observed the interior ceiling damage in the master bedroom and checked the chimney structure from the attic (no visible damage). I then inspected the exterior of the chimney, which was on the rear roof, and up near the roof ridge. From the ground I could see that the chimney was missing a cricket (more on that later) and that the chimney flashing did not look right. The roof was steep, but looked manageable. I decided to climb the roof and view the upside (or font) of the chimney. Going up went fairly well as I was walking up a rear roof valley. Unfortunately, the roof valley ended about 10’ from the roof ridge. I needed to sit of the roof ridge so that I could examine the up side of the chimney.

As I started walking up the steep roof slope to the roof ridge, my boots started slipping on the roof shingles. It is at times like these that I get closer to God. “Our father in heaven…” immediately started going through my mind. My boots continued to loose traction. “…Hallowed by your name…” I decided to get on my knees and stretch out to reach the roof ridge. “…Your kingdom come…” I then pulled and climbed up to the roof ridge. “…Your will be done…” This left my arms stinging from the hot roof shingles.

The view of the rear roof slope looked a whole lot steeper as I was looking down from the roof ridge. I began to understand why cats can climb up a tree a lot better than they can climb down. I had an excellent view of the upside (or front) of the chimney. I confirmed that a roof cricket had not been installed between the chimney and the roof ridge. A cricket? Yes, a cricket. Now don’t go thinking that I was looking for an insect to be standing guard in front of the chimney. A roof cricket is a horizontal wood (covered by roof shingles), or a metal, gable structure that extends from the up side of the chimney and connects to the house roof. The cricket diverts the roof water around the chimney so that it flows down the house roof surface and does pond up at the base of the front of the chimney. The absence of a cricket in front of this chimney allowed roof water, in a heavy rain, to dam-up on the up side of the chimney (even though the front of the chimney is close to the roof ridge) and allow water to leak over and around the chimney flashing, as well as penetrate the roof shingles. The caulked chimney flashing also needed to be re-installed. The present installation of the flashing and the absence of a roof cricket performed well when exposed to normal to light rains, but this installation was susceptible to leaking during heavy rains.

In my written report to my client I stated: “I suggest having a qualified contractor install a roof cricket on the upside of the chimney. The area behind the chimney, between the chimney and the roof ridge, is susceptible to damming-up rain water during heavy rains. This allows the rain to back up (pond) and penetrate the flashing and counter flashing, resulting in roof water to leak around the chimney chase. Section 1001.17 of the 2000 International Residential Code requires that a roof cricket be installed at a chimney with a width greater than 30". The present chimney appears to be at least 32" in width.” I also referred to, and attached a copy of, page 280 of the Journal of Light Construction Field Guide to Residential Construction (Volume 1, A Manual of Best Practices). This page provides details to installing a chimney cricket.

A comment about the building code: The building code is considered to be the “Minimum Standard” for building a house, see www.dca.state.ga.us/development/constructioncodes/programs/codes2.asp When some one says, “This house (or roof, chimney, etc.) was built to the code.” They are really saying, “This house (or roof, chimney, etc.) was built to the minimum standard.” Comforting isn’t it?

In my written report to my client I also addressed the issue with the chimney flashing (flashing is designed to keep water from penetrating around roof penetrations, etc.): “The metal counter (top) flashing at the chimney is caulked onto the brick chimney exterior. This caulked installation is susceptible to leaks and should be repaired (scored into the brick chimney or installed up under the brick chimney), by a qualified roofer / contractor.” I also referred to, and attached a copy of, page 281 of the Journal of Light Construction Field Guide to Residential Construction (Volume 1, A Manual of Best Practices). This page provides details to installing chimney flashing. This book is a good resource and can be purchased through the Journal of Light Construction.

After making my visual observations regarding the chimney, I began looking for an alternate method of getting off of this steep roof. Since I had slipped while going up the rear roof, I was sure that I could manage to slip while descending the rear roof. I did not like that option. I decided that the roof valley on the front right end of the house presented my best option for getting off of this steep roof. I had Mr. Homeowner move my ladder to the roof eave below this front valley, I backed down the roof valley, and climbed down the ladder, to reach sweet mother earth.

When going on a roof, it is a good idea to have some one on the ground to hold the ladder, move the ladder, etc. If you do not have some one on the ground, it is a good idea to have a cell phone with you just in case you have to call some one to replace a fallen ladder, etc. Being elevated above the ground, chances are that the phone’s reception should be great!

During my thirteen+ years as a home inspector, I have observed that a lot of my clients are more concerned with termites when it comes to damage to their future home. While I consider termites to be a definite threat to a home (I think they should be the Official State Insect of Georgia), I consider “water” to be Enemy #1. Water can penetrate and damage a home in a number of ways. Below is All American Home Inspection’s Top 10 List of how water can penetrate and damage your home. The rankings are based on the frequency these defects are discovered during a home inspection:

10. Missing deck flashing: This allows water to leak between where the deck structure attaches to the house siding / structure, resulting in decay to the house siding and floor structure. Have a qualified contractor install metal flashing between the deck ledger board and the house connection.

9. Missing Head flashing over the tops of exposed windows and garage doors: This allows rain water to collect on the wood trim above the windows and doors. The trim and the siding in this area is susceptible to decay, water penetration to the wall substrate is possible. These areas may be sealed with silicone, or have a qualified contractor install metal or vinyl head flashing in these areas.

8. Standing water in the crawlspace (see website): Wet crawlspaces can result in foundation problems, as well as decay to the floor structure. See the “Services” Section, page #3, of our website, www.allamericanhomeinspections.com for a photo of a local building that had hundreds of dollars worth of structural damage due to a wet crawlspace. If water is entering your crawlspace, have a qualified contractor install gutters with downspout extensions to direct water away from the house, as well as evaluate for other water control measures such as drain tile, surface drains, etc.

7. Irrigation sprinklers hitting the house: Causes similar damage to roof water splash back. Verify that your sprinklers are not hitting the house siding, trim, etc. The remedy is simple, direct the sprinklers away from the house, or water the yard and not the house.

6. Poor drainage at the foundation: This can also cause foundation problems, due to soil erosion, water penetration of the crawlspace, etc. Wet soil conditions may also be conducive for termites (discuss with your pest control professional). If the soil is sloped toward your house, have a qualified contractor re-grade the soil at the foundation so that the soil slopes away from the house. I suggest a minimum half inch slope per foot, for the first ten feet away from the foundation.

5. A/C condensation drains: Ever been in a house with a ceiling stain and the owner tells you that the “air condition leaked?” This is normally due to the condensation produced by the attic air handler being obstructed and unable to drain to the exterior of the home, and the auxiliary drain pan and drain line failing (not properly installed or blocked by blown insulation). The result is water damage to the ceiling and / or the living space below. I suggest having the HVAC system serviced on an annual basis, as well as verifying that the air handler drain pan is clear of debris and that the two condensation drain lines are properly vented to the exterior.

4. Plumbing leaks (at supply and waste pipe connections): These leaks produce water damage to interior cabinets, flooring, and possible mold. Left undetected and un-repaired, one can expect damage to the floor structure (in crawlspaces). Periodically check under sinks, washing machine connections, and at the toilets leaks at the supply and waste pipe connections.

3. Leaking wax seal at the toilet: When the wax seal between the toilet waste connection at the plumbing waste pipe connection fails, this allows waste water to leak onto to the floor and into the sub floor, and penetrate the floor framing. Left un-repaired, this will result in possible mold growth, damage to the floor covering, and decay to the sub floor and floor framing. Periodically check around toilet bases for water or water stains. Have a qualified plumber replace the wax seal if water is observed.

2. Roof leaks / Flashing leaks: (nails, debris): Raised nails puncture the roof shingles and allow water to leak around them and penetrate the roof decking. Cracked / deteriorated rubber flashing around the plumbing vents, etc., allow water to penetrate the roof decking. Left un-repaired, the roof decking and the roof structure is subject to decay. Have a qualified roofer repair raised nails and replace damaged flashing boots. Roof debris, such as pine straw, hold water and allow water to penetrate the roof shingles (roof shingles are water resistant, not water proof) and result in decay to the roof decking and structure. Keep roof debris from building up on the house roof.

1. Roof Water Splash Back: Susceptible to damaging wood and cellulose type siding materials, as well as penetrating the various types of siding and damaging the wood framing. Roof water splash back is also likely to penetrate and cause decay to wood trim at doors and windows, and resulting in hidden decay to wall structures, floor structures (in crawlspaces), and interior flooring. Check to see how the roof water is splashing against these areas, and how it is draining away from the house. Gutters, with downs spout extensions, are recommended for preventing roof water splash back.

Don’t let water damage your home and cost you expensive repairs. Feel free to call on us with questions or on-site evaluations. If you know that water is penetrating your home don’t delay, but call a qualified service provider to repair.

How are your purlins? Sounds like a personal question, doesn’t it? Purlin is a curious word. While I don’t know its origin (o.k. I could look it up, but I am not going to), it does cause some confusion when it is being discussed regarding house construction. It is not uncommon for one to think of the horizontal members that are installed between wall studs. The term PURLIN actually refers to the horizontal structural member that supports the roof rafters in the attic. This is an important component. Without it, over spanned rafters would dip and sag, and be subject to cracking and collapsing. By supporting rafters with purlins, one can span the rafters further when building the roof structure.

Section R802.5.1 of the 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) requires that purlins be the same size as the roof rafters that they support. Earlier adopted code editions (by the State of Georgia), such as the 2000 and 2003 IRC’s, as well as the 1995 CABO One and Two Family Dwelling Code, had similar requirements. This means that a 2x6 rafter should be supported by a 2x6 purlin; a 2x8 rafter should be supported by 2x8 purlin, etc. The purlins are supported by 2x4 vertical members called struts. The struts are to be spaced no more than 4’ a part. Struts longer than 8’ in length are to be vertically braced.

The term “knee wall” is commonly used to describe the purlins and struts assembly. “In the old days” it was acceptable to support 2x6 rafters (a common rafter size) with 2x4 purlins. I still find houses built since 1996 with 2x4 purlins supporting 2x6 rafters. The purlins have normally been installed with their flat side supporting the roof rafters. It is not unusual to find that the 2x4 is bending or sagging from the weight of the roof rafters. It is also not uncommon to find that the struts are spaced greater than 4’ a part or are longer than 8’ in length and are not braced.

Undersized purlins, over spanned purlins, and unbraced struts are subject to sagging, bending, and structural distress. The roof rafters and the roof decking also subject bending, sagging, and dipping. This is indicated by the roof having an uneven or wavy roof appearance. These conditions can also interfere with rain draining from the roof, resulting in roof leaks. When the roof is replaced, one may also face the additional expense of replacing warped rafters and roof decking. A common “Best Practice” is to install the purlin with the narrow edge supporting the roof rafter (Such as found in the Journal of Light Construction Field Guide to Residential Construction, Volume 1). This means 5½” of wood supporting a rafter, versus 1½” of wood supporting a rafter. Which one do you think offers the most support?

If you have under sized purlins or purlins that a installed on their flat side, you may wish to consider having 2x6 purlins installed on the existing knee wall with the narrow edge butted up against and supporting the roof rafters. Provided that the present knee wall structure is accessible. Struts should also be properly spaced and braced. I suggest having a qualified contractor perform this installation since working in attics is both dangerous and precarious.

For years I have been verifying that water heaters have been equipped with a Temperature Pressure Relief Valve (TPRV). This safety valve is designed to open and release pressurized hot water, in the event that the water temperature and internal pressure inside the tank exceeds preset limits, and prevents the water heater from exploding.

The TPRV is found on the top or the side of the water heater. The TPRV should be properly vented to the exterior or to a safe location. When installed in a residence, attic, or crawlspace, I suggest that it be vented to the exterior in a visible location, pointed downward and terminated close (within 6”) to the ground. When installed in a garage or exterior storage / utility room, I suggest that the TPRV be terminated downward and close to the floor (within 6”) if it cannot be vented to the exterior. In all cases, the TPRV should be vented with ¾” pipe (or same size as the TPRV) and rated for hot water use. I normally recommend that copper or CPVC piping be used. For the code junkies, I am referencing Section 504.6 of the 2006 International Plumbing Code. This section also allows for other means of disposal other than those mentioned above.

In all my years inspecting water heaters, I have found a few with leaking TPRV’s, but I have never found one open or fully releasing water. This all changed on the afternoon of February 2, 2007. I had taken the afternoon off and was involved in the exhilarating task of installing vinyl window shutters on the exterior of my home. The high winds this afternoon made the task just a bit more challenging. These light weight shutters can quickly become air borne on a windy day. I found that by storing the shutters in my attached garage, I could hang one shutter without the fear of a yet to be installed shutter being damaged as it slid across my drive way or was propelled into a neighbor’s house.

As I walked into my garage to retrieve another shutter, I sensed that some thing was wrong. Have you ever entered or been in a room or area and suddenly realized that some thing was just not right, or had suddenly changed? This “sense” may have been triggered by a faint sound, smell, or movement. When this happens to me, the hairs on the back of my neck usually stand up. As I was walking through my garage I heard a faint sound coming from my water heater. I stopped and listened to this unusual noise, just as the hairs on the back of my neck began standing to attention. I quickly realized that the sound of boiling water was coming from my water heater. My first impulse was to shut off the power to the water heater. The circuit breaker for the water heater is in the main electrical panel in my laundry room. As I moved toward the laundry room, which is up the steps next to the water heater and into the house, the TPRV mounted on top of my water heater opened and released boiling hot water!

 Fortunately for me, l had installed a proper drain line on my water heater’s TPRV, and terminated the drain line downward and close to the garage floor. Had I not installed a drain line at the TPRV, the pressurized hot water would have spewed from the TPRV, hit the wall behind the water heater, and sprayed / splattered forth in what ever direction. Being beside (although elevated by the garage steps) the water heater, I would have been within range of the hot water spray. Instead, the hot water hit the concrete floor, quickly spread out over the floor, and filled the immediate area with steam. After shutting off the power and water supply to the water heater, I discovered that the thermostat was defective. After replacing the thermostat, all was well.

While I have always known that TPRV’s are an important safety device, that fact was firmly driven home while mine was preventing me from being scalded. Protect you and your family by verifying that your water heater’s TPRV is properly vented. If you are not comfortable doing this yourself, give me a call for an on-site evaluation or consult with a qualified plumber.

It was a Friday afternoon in August of 2000. I don’t recall grabbing the attic ladder, but when I came to my senses my hands had a death grip on both sides of it, which along with the attic door and the door frame, was lying on top of me. My eyes were a fixed on the gaping rectangular hole in the ceiling where the attic ladder, the attic door, and the door frame used to be installed.

As I tried to get up, I could hear the home owner and the appraiser running up the stairs toward me. While I was trying to assess the damage to the ceiling and walls around us, they were trying to assess the damage to me. I was very lucky to have only received a few scratches. The attic ladder and door frame had gouged the surrounding walls in places as the assembly came out of the ceiling, sending me crashing to the floor. The attic pull down ladder was on the second floor, with a guard rail to my right. Another foot or two to the right and I would have landed on top of rail and been subject to falling to the first floor below (whew!). That realization made me shake a little.

Our visual examination of the now ragged attic door assembly revealed that two finishing nails were present on both sides of the attic door frame. All four were located near the top end where the attic ladder attaches to the frame. On one side the finishing nails extended about two and half inches through the door frame. On the other side the nails extended about one inch through the door frame. No other nails were present. The ladder had a stamp posted on it stating that the door frame should be secured on all four sides with sixteen penny nails. The appraiser pointed at the finishing nails and said: “We call this a latent defect.”

For those not familiar with nails a little education is in order. The finishing nails to which I am referring are thinner nails used to secure wood trim and molding around doors, at the base of walls, etc. Their narrow heads allow them to be recessed below the wood so that they can be puttied and painted over (remaining invisible). Common sixteen penny nails (16d) are heavier nails with broad heads, and are about 3 ½ inches long. The idiot (to use a professional term) that installed this attic ladder assembly used improperly sized and weaker nails, as well as used an insufficient number. As the home owner realized that the pull down attic ladder was improperly installed and was an obvious safety hazard. Her demeanor changed from concern for me to hot anger toward her builder. She commented something about her “baby” using “those stairs” to store and retrieve the family Christmas decorations from the attic. “Baby” was her nine year old and weighed less than ninety pounds. Mrs. Home owner proceeded to get on the phone and hunt down the builder. I feel that I should point out that “her builder” had changed careers shortly after building her house.

As I was driving home later that afternoon I replayed the event in my mind. I was not totally blameless. When I first climbed the attic ladder, I stopped near the top and examined the attic framing. It was at this point that I heard a “pop”. I quickly descended the attic ladder and inspected each section for defects. I even noted that the weight rating was 300 pounds (more than I my weighed, thank you). I then climbed the attic ladder and entered the attic. It was upon my leaving the attic that the finishing nails failed and the door frame fell out of the ceiling. If I had examined where the attic door frame was connected to the ceiling framing, I would have noticed the absence of visible nails. I would have also noticed if the trim around the door was pulling from the ceiling.

Since that August 2000 afternoon, I am careful to verify that the attic door frame is secured on all four sides with nails larger than finishing nails. Common sixteen penny nails (16d) should be used. While black drywall screws are frequently used, they are reported as not being as strong as nails and are not recommended to be used in this capacity. I also verify that the attic door frame is properly fitted to the rough opening in the ceiling. Shims should be used to fill gaps between the framing and the door structure before it is nailed to the framing. I have found a few other attic door assemblies that were loose and improperly secured in the ceiling. I have also found a few where the top brackets that connect the attic ladder to the door frame are missing nails and are loose.

If you have a pull down attic ladder in your home be sure to inspect it closely before it is used. Make sure that it is properly installed and make the necessary repairs before it is used again. Don’t come to your senses like I did, while lying in the floor with the attic door on top of you!

On April 23, 2007, a client called to inform me that some thing was wrong with the house that I had inspected for them, and that they had subsequently purchased. They had moved into the house just before Easter and now that were noticing an “awful smell in the laundry room.” They had consulted a plumber and a pest control provider, with out a positive result. They were now calling me. I could not help but ask myself, “Did I miss something during the inspection?” I did not know, but I had to find out. I believe in facing things “head- on” so I quickly decided to stop by the house as I was driving in from an out of town inspection.

As I was driving over to the house, I reviewed the floor plan around the laundry room. The house was on a slab foundation. The laundry room was located on the left side of the house and was accessible from the kitchen and the exterior door leading to the drive way. A half bathroom and laundry sink were installed off of the laundry room, and a laundry drain was present. All of these were excellent sources for foul odors. In my professional opinion I figured that the laundry sink trap or the washing machine waste drain trap was dry (with the odor being sewage related). All that would be needed is to add water to the sink trap, thus preventing any sewer odors from coming up through the drain pipes. Other possibilities included a plumbing vent that did not vent to the exterior, or a vent pipe that got punctured by a nail or screw when something was hung on a wall (I have seen this happen in Hazelwood Subdivision).

When I arrived I noticed that the washing machine had been relocated to the drive way. My client was fortunate that we seldom get rain any more. When Mr. Client opened the side exterior door to allow me to enter the laundry room, I was struck by the strong decaying odor that was present. Part of me wanted to smile (and jump for joy) because the odor was not of the sewage variety, but of something that was rotting. As I walked around the laundry room I observed that the odor was strongest at the dryer. The odor was diminished at the laundry drain (accessible due to the washing machine being removed), and non-existent in the half bathroom. This was puzzling. Did something die in the dryer or the dryer vent?

As I moved my nose over the dryer my olfactory senses raised the alarm. I then concentrated on the items stored on top of the dryer. Various cans and containers were present, just like on a lot of dryers. My nose stopped over a colored plastic bucket, and I told Mr. Client that the odor was very strong in the bucket. The look of confusion on my client’s face became one of comprehension and then changed to embarrassment as Mr. Client realized what had happened. I was still clueless. Mr. Client picked up the bucket and took it outside. Moving the bucket seemed to aggravate the odor, which became even stronger. Mr. Client sat the bucket on the drive way and began removing the empty plastic Easter Eggs from it. Beneath the plastic Easter Eggs were real (and rotting) Easter Eggs that were more than two weeks old! The mystery was solved.

As I was driving home I was reminded of another example where a “problem” pointed to one area, but was actually caused by some thing far less serious. My wife and I had finally called a repair man to service our very noisy dishwasher because I was convinced that the bearings were bad in the motor. This made sense because I had checked the unit from top to bottom, the dishwasher was getting old, and I was convinced that the grinding sound was coming from under the unit. When the repair man arrived I described the sound to him. Without even turning the unit on, he smiled, opened the dishwasher, and removed the bottom wand and the cover under it. Trapped beneath the cover was a variety of mangled metal items such as a spoon, a fork, and a Mason jar lid. Since I try to not go near the dishwasher, I considered their presence to not be my fault. None-the-less, my cheeks turned red, just like my wife’s. The mystery was solved. The repair man happily accepted our check and drove off into the sunset.

These two cases are examples that while a problem in the home may point to the “obvious”, the solution may be less obvious, and hopefully less expensive. If an electrical appliance or equipment will not work, verify that it has a power source. Is the breaker tripped? Does it have a reset switch? I have “repaired” a few garbage disposals by resetting this switch after the home owner told me that the disposal did not work. I have restored power to a few inoperable outlets by resetting a tripped GFCI outlet or breaker. The looks on the home owner’s faces were priceless. The next time you have a problem, don’t just look for the usual suspects, but look for the unusual as well.